Warm roof or cold roof on a Victorian terrace
The two constructions solve the same problem in opposite ways and the choice is usually settled by the depth of the existing rafters. In a cold roof the insulation sits at the level of the sloping ceiling, between the rafters, and the space above it is ventilated to outside so that any moisture reaching it is carried away. That requires a continuous free air path from eaves to ridge, typically a clear gap maintained above the insulation, with ventilation openings at both ends — and it requires the insulation between the rafters to deliver the thermal performance on its own. On a Victorian terrace whose rafters are often shallow, hitting the current standard between them while also leaving a ventilation gap is either impossible or costs so much head height that the room stops being usable. In a warm roof the insulation goes above the rafters, or between and over them, so the entire structure sits within the insulated envelope at close to internal temperature and no ventilation void is needed. The structure stays warm and dry, the thermal bridging at each rafter is largely eliminated, and the head height inside is preserved. The cost is external: the roof build-up gets thicker, which raises the roof surface above the existing line and has to be resolved at the eaves, at the verge and against the neighbours on both sides — on a terrace, a roof that steps up 100 millimetres against next door is visible and needs detailing rather than ignoring. In practice most terrace conversions here end up as a warm roof over the main slope, sometimes with a hybrid approach where a dormer roof is insulated as a warm deck and the remaining slopes follow. What matters is that the decision is taken deliberately, with the vapour control strategy designed for whichever it is, rather than being settled on site by whatever the roofer usually does.